36 Hours in Seoul

Seoul, once ravaged by the Korean War, has undergone a rapid transformation to emerge as one of Asia's most vibrant cities. Led by Mayor Oh Se-hoon's passion for design, the city has experienced a remarkable makeover, introducing modern bus shelters and adorned bridges. This year, Seoul has also been honored with the title of World Design Capital, an accolade bestowed upon it by a prestigious international design alliance.

However, Seoul's allure extends far beyond its aesthetic enhancements. The city boasts a thriving contemporary art scene, featuring talented local artists and captivating exhibitions. Moreover, Seoul is a shopper's paradise with trendy stores dotting the urban landscape, offering fashionable wares to satisfy any style aficionado's cravings.

Seoul's vibrant pop and youth culture have also become major draws, attracting visitors from near and far. Its dynamic music scene and cutting-edge fashion trends make it a rival to other Asian capitals like Tokyo. The electrifying energy and creativity that pulsate through the city create an infectious atmosphere that captures the hearts of both locals and tourists alike.

Friday

4 p.m.
1) CULTURE, THEN AND NOW

The convergence of art and architecture, Korean and Western, old and new, finds a marquee home at the Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art (747-18 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu; 82-2-2014-6900; leeum.samsungfoundation.org). Squirreled away in a hilly residential section of the Itaewon area, the museum showcases the Samsung Foundation’s impressive art collection in a campus of buildings designed by Rem Koolhaas, Jean Nouvel and Mario Botta. Pieces date from historic Korean Buddhist paintings and celadon ceramics to works by Mark Rothko, Anish Kapoor and Nam June Paik. Then, for a contrast to the Leeum’s polished presentation, walk five minutes to Ggooll (683-31 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu; 82-70-4127-6468; choijeonghwa.com). The experimental artist Choi Jeong Hwa has turned this former hovel into a riotous, well, hovel that doubles as a cafe and alternative gallery.

7:30 p.m.
2) KIMCHI REDUX

It was only a matter of time before Korean cuisine got the nouvelle treatment, and a pioneer in this growing movement is Jung Sik Dang (3F, Acros B/D, 649-7 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-517-4654; jungsikdang.com), next to Dosan Park. The dining room is modern and subdued, with white tablecloths and leather chairs. The rotating set menu (100,000 or 120,000 won, or about $92 or $110 at 1,085 won to the dollar) might include sea squirt bibimbap, anchovy paella and “Five Senses Satisfaction Pork Belly.” There is just a handful of tables, so be sure to make a reservation.

10:30 p.m.
3) SEOUL AFTER DARK

Seoul has a panoply of night-life districts that cater to different crowds, but perhaps the trendiest is Garosu-gil. It’s home to cute cafes and immaculate boutiques like p. 532 and Ilmo Outlet, but at night its many bars throb to life. Two cool spots include Café des Arts (2F, 545 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-541-0507), with its beer and flea market vibe, and the yuppie-ish, dark-and-moody Wine & Dine (535-18 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-545-6677).

Saturday

10 a.m.
4) DESIGN DIGS

The Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a massive complex designed by Zaha Hadid, will be a centerpiece of Seoul’s design transformation when it is completed as early as 2012. Though still under construction, its impressive, space-age skeleton is already worth a look (2 Eulji-ro 7-ga, Jung-gu; 82-2-2266-7330; seouldesign.or.kr). So is the new Hadid-designed park that surrounds it, which elegantly incorporates recently discovered ruins, including a military complex from the Choson dynasty (1392-1910). Small design exhibitions accompany a museum chronicling the site’s history.

11 a.m
5) WHITE CUBES

The city’s contemporary art scene is blossoming and it’s centered in pleasant Samcheong-dong. Blue-chip spaces include Gallery Hyundai (80 Sagan-dong, Jongro-gu; 82-2-2287-3570; galleryhyundai.com); Kukje Gallery (59-1 Sokeuk-dong, Jongro-gu; 82-2-735-8449; kukjegallery.com); and Arario Gallery (149-2 Sokeuk-dong, Jongro-gu; 82-2-723-6190; arariogallery.com). Anchoring the area is the Artsonje Center (144-2 Sokeuk-dong, Jongro-gu; 82-2-733-8945; artsonje.org), founded in 1998 to support contemporary and experimental art. Meanwhile, over in the Cheongdam area is the Platoon Kunsthalle (97-22 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-3447-1191; kunsthalle.com), an alternative art space built from stacked shipping containers.

1:30 p.m.
6) CHEAP OR CHIC

For lunch in Samcheong-dong, try the Kukje Gallery’s upscale continental restaurant (18,000 won for the scallop risotto). Or slip into one of the hole-in-the-wall restaurants tucked into the hilly side streets, like Cheonjin Poja (148-5 Sokeuk-dong, Jongro-gu; 82-2-739-6086), where an order of pork mandoo dumplings will set you back 4,000 won. There’s also aA (55 Sokeuk-dong, Jongro-gu; 82-2-722-1211), a new four-level temple to vintage modern furniture, though the draw is more the Danish lighting than the 8,000-won ham and Brie sandwiches.

3 p.m.
7) CREDIT CRUNCH

There’s no shortage of ways to max out a credit card in Seoul. The heart of temptation lies in the Cheongdam-dong district, and spreads out from there. Watch international brands try to outdo one another, be it with the vegetation-covered Ann Demeulemeester (650-14 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-3442-2570; anndemeulemeester.be); the new concrete-on-concrete Rick Owens (651 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-516-2217; rickowens.eu); or the unapologetically decadent 10 Corso Como (79 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-3018-1010; 10corsocomo.co.kr). For homegrown luxury emporiums, stop by Boon the Shop (89-3 and 79-13 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-542-8006; boontheshop.com) and the edgier Daily Projects (1-24 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-3218-4075; dailyprojects.kr). And for local skater and streetwear design, Humantree (4F, 653-1 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-514-3464; humantree.info) shows off its hoodies and T-shirts next to a Planet of the Apes blow-up doll.

7:30 p.m.
8) FASHION BARBECUE

Given that its proprietor is a former editor at Vogue Korea, you might expect Tadak (412-29 Hapjeong-dong, Mapo-gu; 82-2-333-6564) to be a tad pretentious. Quite the opposite. Stylish yet low-key, this warm-and-woody Korean barbecue restaurant opened earlier this year near the Hongdae student night-life district. Beef, pork and vegetables are grilled over wood charcoal at your table, accompanied by all the pickled and bean paste fixings. The prices are just as palatable: 10,000 won per one-person portion. A serving of cold naeng myun noodles is 4,500 won.

11 p.m.

9) WHERE THE KIDS ROAM

Seoul has its share of sleek bars and sophisticated clubs, but for a bit of urban anthropology to go with your drink, head to Hongdae. Packed with teenagers, university students and other 20-somethings, this carnivalesque, neon-lit area is where on weekend nights you might find yourself dodging a stilt walker as a rock band plays nearby. On the main drag, you can’t miss Luxury Norebang (367-39 Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu; 82-2-322-3111), a multistory karaoke palace that looks like Pee Wee’s Playhouse as decorated by Laura Ashley. For a more upscale party vibe, check out Lound (83-13 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-517-7412; 74lound.com), which draws a fashionable set to its hyperslick spaces.

Sunday

11 a.m.
10) A Scenic Brunch Spot

Experience a delightful brunch at Between, a restaurant located in the heart of Seoul. Nestled in the lively district of Itaewon, this Italian and Spanish tapas restaurant offers a trendy atmosphere complete with a terrace and lounge. Opened recently, Between is known for its contemporary interior design, making it the perfect place to start your day with delicious eggs Benedict (16,000 won) or a mouthwatering prosciutto sandwich (17,000 won). While savoring your meal, take in the vibrant surroundings and enjoy some people-watching.

12:30 p.m.
11) The Ultimate Bathhouse Experience

Immerse yourself in Korean culture by visiting the renowned Dragon Hill Spa & Resort. Located in Yongsan-gu, this seven-story extravaganza is more than just a bathhouse. With its mesmerizing pyramids and an eclectic Native American-themed pub, the spa resembles an amusement park with a hint of 80s Vegas. Unwind in the sex-segregated spa areas, indulge in shared saunas, or relax in the outdoor pools and Jacuzzis. Apart from spa facilities, you'll find a range of entertainment options including nail salons, video arcades, an Internet cafe, a cinema, and even a putting green. Admission prices range from 10,000 to 12,000 won, with spa packages available starting from 100,000 won. Dragon Hill Spa & Resort offers a unique and humorous experience, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking both entertainment and relaxation.

IF YOU GO

The 185-room Park Hyatt Seoul (995-14 Daechi 3-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-2016-1234; seoul.park.hyatt.com) occupies a 24 -story glass-and-steel building in the central Gangnam district. Floor-to-ceiling windows, warm wood finishes and granite baths outfit its spacious, modern rooms. Doubles start at 270,000 won (about $249).

The new IP Boutique Hotel (737-32 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu; 82-2-3702-8000; ipboutiquehotel.com) is conveniently situated in Itaewon. It has a colorful facade that matches the 132 comfortable rooms within: think lots of white with splashes of Pop color. Rates start at 200,000 won, with frequent discounts available.

Situated in the heart of fashionable Garosu-gil, the Hotel Tea Tree & Co (535-12 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2-542-9954; teatreehotel.com) opened last year with 38 spare yet cozy rooms. Standard rooms start at 96,800 won.